Happy Chaos: Innoshima

悲しいお知らせ・Sad News

When I first got to Innoshima I wrote about a 76 year old woman, Kazuko Matsuura, who kidnapped Gen, put us in  taxi and treated us to a few hours of karaoke and a taxi ride to her house.  After this encounter, I have been looking for her for over a year and a half. Anytime I would recognize the figure of an old woman, I would check the face...whether at the supermarket or in the car.  I had both Aoki-san and Katahira-san on a mission to find out where she was. They took maps out, made phone calls.  I even had sent her a new years card back in 2006-2007.  

But, it was not until this week, the day after I arrived back in Innoshima, that I got the news that she had passed away at the age of 79, of an annurism.  From what I understand she had been sick and in the hospital, and it must have happened in her sleep.  Kiyoko san told me and she brought be to the wake.  I never thought I would experience this during my time here.  There was a room with many flowers and a photo of Kazuko.  As music played announcements were made and people lined up to sprinke incents 3 times in a dish and bow to the family.  Then at the end, I got to go  see her in the casket.  

 

They say in Japan, that when someone dies, so does a library.  

After all of my months of searching, I finally found her, Matsuura Kazuko, 1337-1 Nakanosho, 79.  And I was able to see her one last time.  And although I know she has passed, I will continue to look for her in the streets of Innoshima, 

Until next time, Kazuko.

日本人の心・The Japanese Heart

I usually (ok always) write about the not so good things that happen here, and ignore anything good that happens.  So you tend to wonder, if it's that bad, why would she want to stay 2 years...?  Well.  It's not "that" bad.  Its just a challenge.  And if it weren't a challenge, it wouldn't be worth being here.  Today I did learn something about the Japanese heart.  Maybe at school here, they don't teach the same critical thinking methods as they do in the states, and maybe the kids have to wear shorts in the snow and drink milk even if it makes them sick, but there is something that the Japanese learn that is very special, and I think it is about how to use their hearts. At one of my elementary schools last week I got letters from each of the 5th and 6th graders and I was surprised at not only why they wrote, but how they wrote.  I would never have guessed they liked English, let alone school based on the way they were in class, but they actually wrote to me from their heart.  Maybe because it was written down on paper it was easier to say.  But I just know when I was their age I would not have expressed myself like that.  Maybe in the US we are more shy about our feelings (unless of course that is of course if we are pissed ...  in that case I am ALL about sharing with everyone...)...  In other words, I was surprised at just how much the children were able to comprehend about themselves at such a young age.  

Today.  I went to an elementary school graduation.  Actually...I went to one school for the purpose to take pictures.  So last night I prepared my camera and got everything ready. Only to get to the next island and arrive at the school without...ding ding...my camera.  Not surprised.  (I just used my cell phone).  Anyway.  I went to my next school to attend the graduation ceremony, which was very formal and Japanese.  Very planned out.  Every movement perfect. I would compare it to some kind of military ceremony in sleekness of the movements.  And most impressive were the first through 4th graders who were able to sit still and not move (except for a few noises once or twice) for over an hour in a gymnasium full of silence except for the speaker.  After graduation, the children and their parents prepared a ceremony for us in the classroom with cake and coffee, a slide show of photos of the students through the years, and each child prepared a speech about where they saw themselves in 20 years.  Contrary to what I thought, these thought so much about their futures.  One said, "I probably will be smoking...so I will just stay in my room."  The boys all saw themselves married at 32, where two of the four girls said they would be living alone, and although that may seem difficult, they would make it fun.  Then four students prepared "Rakugo," a form of a one-man comedy act, similar to that of Comedic Interp for speech and debate.  I didn't realize just how much these relatively quiet children could have such a comprehensive understanding of comedy and life and everything at only 12 years old.  

The Japanese heart goes beyond that of the classroom.  I can't count how many times I have been given bags of oranges and fruits.  Just the other day I was walking home, said hi to an obaachan and I dont even think she said hello, she just said here eat these, and handed me a few tangerines. (Granted if someone you didn't know handed you something in the states and said, "Here, eat these,"  the first thing you would do is not eat them...In Japan its OK).  I noticed recently that most of my holiday decorations or Japanese handmade items and other chachkas around the house were given to me by my calligraphy teacher.  Every time I run into Tagashira-san at the super market, sure enough she is waiting to give me a box of pastries she "happened" to buy at that time.  And Katahira-san, who always wants me to eat something (even if it is midnight and I already ate...twice...)...and by eat I mean drink a LOT...Anyway, what I am saying is, despite all of the challenges faced from the country itself, the Japanese people, the Japanese heart, that is what keeps people here.  Well, at least that's what keeps me here.

久しぶりです・It's Been a While...

It has definitely been almost half of a year since I updated this.  I guess I was worried too much about being bored, that I ended up being too busy.  I will start with the beginning of October, where I made a trip to Tokyo Disney (yes, again) for the Halloween event.  This time I took most of my Innoshima friends with me, including the baby.  It was also my first time to stay at a hotel in the Disney area so it was nice not to have to take a train anywhere.  Back on the island, although it was still warm, according to the hundreds/thousands of years old calendar, it was autumn.  When the leaves finally began to change color by November, Misako went on a mission to find a cafe that was recommended in WINK magazine, as a cute place to go in autumn.  We found it...far far off the beaten path, surrounded by orange leaves and it was a really nice way to start the cold season.  (The photos above are of the cafe and the LOVELY set lunch).  

Alas with the change of the seasons, Disney saw a change in holiday events and merchandise, so I had to go back to  for "Christmas Fantasy 2007."  I went with Mirai.  We had pre-purchased tickets.  And at 730 am as we were running through Tokyo station to catch the train to Disney, announcements were echoing overhead that Disneyland (not even open for another hour) was already sold out for the day. Unbelievable.  Luckily Meghan's host mom made it in as well and the park eventually re-opened and Junko and the kids came in too. Yet again the lines for popcorn were longer than the rides.  Continuing with Christmas in Japan, Illuminations are very popular here.  In Innoshima there is an island-wide illumination (Christmas lights) contest. Kobe is famous for its Christmas Illuminations.  And closer to home, Shobara, located in the north of Hiroshima Prefecture, is also famous for its illumunations.  So Suzuka Misako Jen and I headed to Shobara to check it out.  It was pretty much a big scale set-up much like the Osborne lights at the Disney MGM Studios, stretching out over an entire park.  There was a giant dragon in a pond made of lights, just amazing.  

At the end of December I finally finished my Dino statue based on the photo I took in the summer, in time to take it home with me for Christmas.  And also finally, in the little tine 2-way street big enough for one bike, my car ended up having one tire get stuck in an opening in the wall on one side, and that tire started climbing up the wall while the rest of the car was not going to have it.  So at 10pm at night, on a street that JAF (AAA of Japan) would most likely not be able to service, in a town with a population of less than 50...I had to find people to help me get my car out of the road, because it was blocking anyone from coming and going up the street.  Innoshima people are amazing.  Within ten minutes I had three people including one of my students, pushing my car in the freezing cold, without thinking twice.  And Misakos parents came to rescue me.  I have to say that this situation was bound to happen.  Just like the stories of people living rice fields end up driving into a rice field, if you live in Innoshima, your car is bound to hit a wall or a tree or a building, at some point in time.  (The car and the wall are okay...)

I arrived in the states the same day that my friends Kanako and Chambu arrived in Florida.  3 years ago we started a tradition of spending one major holiday together a year.  Senior year it was Thanksgiving in Florida.  Last year it was New Years in Kanagawa, this year it was Christmas (reunion) in Florida.  It was really nice to be home for Christmas since I had not been back for the holidays last year.  My mother went all out with decorations, and the genamin were extra handsome.  Sammy got the Underdog complete series DVD set for Christmas.  Apparently he asked for it.  And people think I strange.   My father was also in town.  And so my mother planned lots of events, one being the candlelight procession at Epcot.  After the girls left, Gilda arrived.  Then I was sooooo fortunate to have Talia come and visit for a weekend.  It was so hot we were able to go tanning.  But then not two days after Talia left, Florida froze and it was back to the long johns.  Being home was nice, but it was also a lot of running around trying to see people but not really seeing them.  Its hard to spend quality time, or any time, with limited time. 

And then it was back to Innoshima.  I had forgotten the pain that was to come. Winter.  I read a book called "CIAO America" written by Beppe Severgnini, an Italian man who spent a year living in Georgetown.  He said that Americans really value their comfort.  Cheers. I can't agree more.  Comfort can not have a price tag.  In the country side in japan, there is no such thing as central heating.  You have to use either small electric heaters or an air conditioner that can produce hot air, slightly efficiently, or kerosine heaters.  The kerosine heaters are used in the school classrooms and produce an unhealthy gas that you have to breathe in.  So.  What do they do? Keep the heater on with the windows open.  Hmmm.  A bit counter productive.  There are other forms of heating such as the kotatsu (a heated table you can sit under), hot carpets, hot blankets and the ofuro (bath tub), not to mention kairo, which are hot pouches you can stick to your clothes, put in your shoes or hold on to.  Its so uncomfortable.  My olive oil froze in my kitchen.  I got chilblains on my toes even when wearing two pairs of socks.  Chilblains, which I had never heard of, is something they used to get in Britan before central heating in the 50s.  Its not frost bite, but its the several steps before frostbite.  Meanwhile in the unheated schools, all of the kids are in shorts and skirts, and not allowed anything else.  Nor are they allowed to hold the kairos.  Which at this point I would like to re-introduce a character from last year.  You may remember her as the woman who wouldn't allow me to wear a scarf in class...

-At this point of the winter I am wearing two pairs of socks, leggings, a skirt, undershirt, shirt, jacket and a kairo on my back and in my pocket.  I go to her class room and the kairo is in my hand.  And she says, 

Her: You cant hold it.  

Me: Its cold. 

Her: The children aren't allowed to hold them, so you can not hold them in class.

Me: But its cold.

Her: Its Japanese culture we have to set an example for them.

Me: I can not comprehend what you are saying I just do not underrstand.  I dont understand.

Her: Maybe you dont understand, but it is Japanese culture.

What a bint. 

I would like to quote Gilda..."You are an adult, why can't you..."  Yes.  I don't understand either.

Toward the end of January I drove out to Okayama to visit my friend Emi's grandma.  She lives about 30 minutes from Okayama station.  It was a lovely relaxing weekend.  She made me ozoni, new years soup, because I was not in Japan for new years.  I wish I could go visit her more often.  After a year and a half I also got a nice visit from Jina.  She came to Onomchi-Innoshima for a day and we took a nice trip to a high class onsen, and ate a lot of kaki-pi at my apartment. 

Two days that I was at Inhoku Elementary School happened to be the two days that NHK was filming a sumo special at the school.  As I had written about in the past, there is a sumo ground in Nakanosho, and the kids from Inhoku also have a sumo court/field...Which is very rare.  There's a sumo society and a lot of effort is put into planning the sumo festival.  So to honor this tradition, Mainoumi, a famous sumo wrestler came to Innoshima and filmed a television special. Of course I was interested in meeting him, and so were the other teachers. During his break they ushered me in to his waiting room to introduce me.  And it actually worked in their favor because they had me as an excuse to meet him. For a sumo wrestler he is not very big.  He was a very warm person and instead of bowing he shook my hand and gave me a nice American-style handshake.

Finally my olive oil has defrosted, and I only have to wear one pair of socks to school.  This only means it is a matter of days before the bugs come back and I can neither enter nor exit my apartment.  But I have talked to my landlord and she says I can contact her any time I need help. Hopefully this year I wont have to attempt to jump out of the window to go to school because the bugs have surrounded my front door.

給食・School Lunch

Once again I find myself confused with the Japanese education system.  Not with the education.  But with food.  Everyday at elementary school, instead of going to a cafeteria with everyone else, a few kids pick up the food and bring it to the classroom, after dressing in the appropriate serving outfits.  This is followed by assembly lines of food distributing students who bring the food to everone one else.  No one can start eating until everyone is sitting down with all of their food, and the assembly people have folded their masks and aprons and are also sitting. Fine.  No big deal. We eat together. At middle schools, each student begins eating his/her bento (lunch box) as soon as the bell rings.  Every students bento has pretty much the same things, even though they all have different mothers who pack the bentos in different kitchens.  There is no lunch room...no hot food service.  At some schools they sell bread and coffee milk things.

Last week I was at one of my middle schools eating in the teachers room, and a student came in. I was at that time eating yogurt (which most american people would eat as part of a lunch....), and the kid said excitedly..."We can eat that?" To which a teacher responded, "No, only teachers can."  I asked why, and so did the kid....to which we were responded to with...."Well, if we let them eat that, then it will become a snack.  And then things will become difficult."   How?  Will all hell break lose because a kid had a yogurt...?  Because Tanaka has a yogurt and no one else does, is that going to cause trouble, because everyone else will want it?  Well, their mothers can pack them yogurt too.  In fact...they can pack them chips instead.  They can give them cookies...that way, its not a big deal that Tanaka has a yogurt.  And not Takahashi.  But not in Japan.  Because Takahashi and his friends dont have yogurt, little Tanaka will never be allowed to eat a yogurt with his rice and his hot dog weiner that has been sitting in his lunch box in the back of the room (unrefridgerated) for 4 hours.  So I ask...what is healther...a cookie that has been sitting in a box....or a sausage sitting in a hot box for several hours.... Which is better....drinking 100% milk everyday, or having juice every now and then....(juice is also not allowed, as I understand).  These poor children are not given the chance to eat creatively.  I also asked why they could not have these "snacks," and recieved a different answer.  "Because they need a balance or they will get tired and cant study."  Note.  Anyone who eats a big box of rice, does not bounce out of their seat with a sharpened pencil ready to study.  No.  The rice causes them to forget the pencil and fall asleep on the desk with drool haning out, while the milk they drank causes them to reach REM before their eyes shut. 

At an elementary school, they were passing out persimmons with the lunch.  And one boy said that he didnt like it.  I told him it was okay that he did not have to eat it.  But then the teacher walked around the room and said..."where is your persimmon?" So he had to take one. When she noticed that he wasnt eating it, she stood next to him and told him to try.  And he did, with a look of unhappiness.  She told me "he used to not eat mushrooms but then got used to them.  The first time he threw up, but now he is okay.  He didnt want to lose to the mushrooms." He shoved the persimmon down his throat (even after she said it was okay to stop). I just dont understand.  Why cant they eat what they want to?  Why cant they leave what they dont like...? Why do they have to go to the point of getting sick, to reach the same balance that everyone else has to eat?  Everyone is different.  Everyones food balance is different.  Give the child a yogurt damnit.

２年目・Take Two

ACT II Scene 1: Innoshima

Once I arrived back in Japan, summer had started.  Well.  Officially summer begins (according to an old old old Japanese calendar dealing the sun and other such natural things that have no relation to todays life), around mid July (perhaps the 15th) and ends around the 25th of August.  At least in Innoshima that is how it is.  So every summer festival, every bbq, every chance to swim and eat shaved ice, is squeezed into those few weeks.  And then, as soon as the summer peaks, when it is at its hottest (August 25), the pools shut down and people stop going to the beach.  Its as if the actual temperature has nothing to do with the weather.  Its all about the date.  One explanation is that after Obon (a festival at the end of August where people return to their homes and visit ancestors), if you go into the ocean, it is said that some sort of ghost will pull you in.  Another explanation is that there is a growing number of jellfish coming into the beaches of Japan within recent years, beginning at the end of the summer.  Regardless.  It was hot.  And summer was over right when it started.

The weekend after I got back, was the Setoda Beach Festival.  Just as last year, Yukari had a BBQ at her house before going to the festival.  But this year we had a few new faces.  Yuka (the baby, 9 months old) and the new Onomichi JETs.  The festival was really nice.  Next to the beach they had booths set up with food, and local school groups performed on the stage. And at the end of the night there was an amazing fireworks display. 

Two weeks later was the annual Pirates Festival in Innoshima. At this point at I had been sitting in my BOE doing absolutely nothing for 3 weeks, so I decided to help the Suigun Matsuri people get things ready for the festival.  During the Saturday of the festival, selected people from Innoshima put on the traditional Innoshima Murakami Suigun (Pirate-Navy) outfits, and perform a historical reenactment of the Pirates (including boats and guns).  This year, Andrea Jen Jody and Gil (all 2nd year jets yet two of them came to Innoshima for the first time) came out to the festival.  Before showtime, we all went to Misakos house for a BBQ.  A bunch of Misako and Megumi's friends from Canada study abroad came for the weekend.  Then we all piled in cars and headed to the beach.  It was really crowded but we were there early enough to get a nice seat in the front row of the beach.  Day two of the Matsuri included boat races, and the chance to row the pirate boats.  The other Onomichi people left early, but I headed out to the beach to ride in the boats.  I was walking there from my house, a 20 minute walk in the hottest weather ever.  More than halfway thru the trip, a car stops in the middle of the street and asks me to get in, because they were going to the beach too.  It was an old woman and her daughter. So I got in.  Because she was an old woman, and I feel like I had almost hit her with my car at some point when she had been walking in the street and orange groves near my apartment.  (Come to find out later that it was the massage lady in my town, and her mother).  Anyway.  The boat races ended up being fun.  And it was really nice to see so many Innoshima people out doing things.

Along with the 4 new JETs (Simon Deb Ross and Toby), I was greeted with a new friend in my apartment.  Along with the incredibly large bugs (worms with teeth, spiders with hips...etc), a lizard ran into my apartment and took refuge in my bathroom (or at least had the decency to do shitters in the bathroom...which I found).  I was worried at first but then I realized he would eat the bugs.  Gil ended up finding him during the pirate festival weekend and took him outside for me. But a week later, a new lizard came in, and he is still here living somewhere in my apartment.

The following weekend Deb Toby and I went to SOUND MARINA Feel the Voice, an annual concert held in Hiroshima Bay. Pretty much I went to see PORNOGRAFFITTI, a band from Innoshima which is pretty big right now.  Other performers....Tokyo Ska Paradise Orchestra, Seamo, Orange Range, Asian Kung Foo Generation...etc.  I ended up buying a lot of towels and band merchandise.  And I used my first squat port-o-potty, which was cleaner than any regular one I have ever seen. 

At the beginning of September, Kanako and her friend Nikki (from England) came down to visit.  In one day we saw almost everything to see in Innoshima.  Including a jack-ass old man driving irresponsibly.  We were coming back from the Jizobana (the large round rock formation in the photo) and I was driving down a really narrow road fit for a car and a bike only.  (Note...it is used as a two-way street because there is no other choice). If you slip off the road you fall into the ocean, or into a rice field.  So.  On the way down we were about 100 feet away from being off of the street, when an old man in a car came up the hill.  He saw me.  And he could have backed up 60 feet and let me go.  BUT NO.  He decided to pressure me to back up (meaning to back up backwards up a hill, or into the ocean, rice field or mountain).  So I waited. And he decided to drive up the side of the street (the space alloted for a bike).  And he got so close to my car to the point where we couldnt move.  He was 1 cm away from me.  1 cm.  And I was screaming out of the window in Japanese...THIS IS IMPOSSIBLE! THIS IS IMPOSSIBLE.  But he was not going to let some foreigner, let alone a female, tell him what to do.  So as one of my tires barely still on the road (almost in a ditch) lingered, he squeaked passed me with 1 cm between us.  What an arsehole.  Anyway, the time with Kanako and Nikki was awesome.  We ended up doing Karaoke with Misako, her parents, their friends, Suzuka, Simon, Megu etc.  I ended up having to sing the macarena (because dancing started to break out in the karaoke room...) and I looked up and all of a sudden everyone was dancing the macarena in front of me.  Cute...and weird. 

Monden-san and her little poodle Nana, came to visit me in Innoshima a few weeks ago.  I had been wanting to meet Nana all year, so Monden brought her over to play.  And she also informed me that Nana was what the Japanese call a "new half..." Both boy and girl.....I didnt know how to react when she told me, so I laughed.  But if I were to say, Nana was a lady, and nothing like a Sammy or Dino.

In the middle of September, I went with the Onomichi JETs to a foresty area of Onomichi to Buono Musica, an overnight concert with music, food and camping.  Yes I went camping.  And I survived.  The food was incredible. There was hot wine.  And the scenery was really nice.  But we woke up to a rainstorm, and had to pack up our tents and drive back in the rain.  The day of the concert was beautiful, though.  And I definately would consider camping again (within driving distance of my house).

And now, as the Japanese calendar points to autumn (certainly the weather will say differently....), Simon and I did a Halloween event at Habu pre-school.  The teachers were looking around for pumpkins (USA style) and were given about 5 LARGE orange pumpkins....one was not even pick-up-able.  During the middle of our event, a huge...massive spider entered the room (perfect timing), so it really did feel like Halloween.

日本人のいとこ・The Japanese Cousin

After one year in Japan, it was time to head back home for a somewhat annual family roadtrip

across the US.  As my luck would have it I left Japan with acute tonsilitus and came back with a sprained toe.  About a week before leaving Japan the back of my throat turned white, so I knew it was time to head back to the doctor for a magic drip and some medication.  I was not about to be sick when I had to be in a car for 2 weeks.  I arrived in

DSCN4687

Tokyo on the 18th ish of July, and stayed with Fumi for a night.  The next day, the 19th, the final day of the FIND STITCH event at Tokyo Disney (a much anticipated event!!!), I went to TDL and met up with Omori-sensei and her lovely babies, Will and Emma.  Will was my ride buddy for the whole day.  Apparently we are best friends too.  And it was really weird to be with children that spoke english....(because Im always around ones that dont).  We got on almost every major attraction and got to see the newly updated Pirates of the Carribean.  I hadnt seen Omori sensei in a year, and it was great to spend the day with her family at Disney.  Post Disney, I saw my Amy one last time before she left study abroad for gtown, and then I headed to Junkos house to do some final preparation for the trip to the states.

12-13 years ago, Junko worked in the Japan Pavillion at Epcot, for one year.  This year, I decided to take her son Motoki (9), back home with me, to show him the USA, and the places his mother had been.  He is pretty much my little brother anyway, so I was so excited that he could come.  At Narita, we bid farewell to the japanese food we knew (tako yaki and sushi) and said hello to some skank imposterous asian cuisine provided for us on US Airways.......The flight was long and obnoxious just because it was night time for us, and the plane was not very allowing of sleep.  Not to mention the man across the row from me was not the most sane of people.  On the plane with his family...he turns to me at one point in some sort of drunken state..."This water is crazy...."  Me..."Huh?"  Man..."Im just kidding...."  Me thinking...Please fall asleep man and leave me alone....

I knew I was in America the second I stepped off the plane at LAX.  LAX is one of the more strict airports, in terms of things allowed in the country....plants, animals, foods....the regulations are a bit tough, so customs and immigration take a bit longer.  But as soon as the plane unloaded and we ran through the glass doors (and Motoki almost broke sign in the wait area), I knew I was not in Japan...."UGH, we have to wait....blah blah blah...bitch bitch bitch..."  Everyon around me started bitching about every little thing ever about the airport, immigration, customs.....But everyone had to wait.  No one in that line was special.  Everyone was in the same boat.  Yet everyone was pissed that they had to wait.  Like they were singled out to wait (like everyone else)....people were pissed about their luggage, pissed about the lines.  I was trying to remember the happy times in Japan, where people wait diligently in 2-hour lines outside in Disneyland in the July heat, with not a peep out of them.  And then as Motoki dropped the sign in the line, I was quickly brought back to reality, in sweaty line, for 20 minutes, between non-stop bitchers.  Finally, I caught a glimpse of Mrs. Perrone and the gentlemen.....

Nick arrived at the airport at the same time, so we all piled in the car and circled around the LAX trying to find him (circling LAX is like circling around hell).  Culture Shock:  My mother thought she saw him outside the building so she told me to scream his name out of the window...?What?  You want me to scream...isnt that a bit obnoxious.....?  So as I screamed NICK NICK...out of the car....a was full of fear that a bunch of old women were going to start shaking their heads at me in disgust and outcast me....then I realized I was in the US, and could scream obscenities out the window and get a thumbs up.....

Day 1: Beverly Hills Hotel.  The four of us ventured out to Hollywood where Motoki had his first meal in the states (post nap).  We ate at the Disney Soda Fountain and walked the Kodak mall.  Then headed back to the hotel and went to bed. 

Day 2:  Disneyland.  We arrived early to put the dogs in the disney day kennel, only to find out that they didnt have the proper identification....and could not board.  With my father, motoki and I lacking a cell phone, we had to shove $2.50 in quarters to call and tell my mother to meet us earlier....at this point we were all pissed.  We ended up having to take the dogs all the way to the Katella animal hospital, so any effort trying to get into the park early, was lost.  But me and the boys (nick and motoki) got into the park and hit some rides before meeting back up with Mrs. Perrone.  As it became night time,  we met up with Roy Rhonda and Adrianna at downtown disney, and did some pin trading.  Motoki got into pin trading pretty heavy....and then had dinner.  Motoki and I headed back to the park to ride NEMO (the latest attraction), at around 1130 at night.

Day 3: I woke up to a THUD....Motoki had fallen off the extra high bed onto the floor....but he was still in one piece so we headed to California Adventure.  Mid-day we went to see HAIRSPRAY !!!  Later in the day my friend from Georgetown, Justin, and his girlfriend Jen, joined us at the park and Justin finally got to meet Mrs. Perrone.  It was really great that we got to get together, because I was at disney for such a short time, that I didnt think I would get to see him.

Day 4: La Costa....We drove down toward San Diego to Carlsbad, CA, and stayed at a golf resort called La Costa...where Motoki, at the nice restaurant proceeded to do wonderful impersonations of the poodles.  I went to Starbucks....in Carlsbad.  It was amazing.  Motoki had his first chocolate milk.  At night we went on a search for a japanese restaurant in town, and that ended in....not finding it.  So we retreated to the hotel.

Day 5-6: San Fransisco   Nick headed back to Vegas, as we headed to San Fransisco.  It was FREEZING.  And windy.  But it was SF so it was nice.  The first night Motoki and I went on a mission for sushi and found a lovely place with yellow tail better than japanese yellow tail....yum.  The 2nd day we headed to Japan town, bought books for the car trip, had kaitenzushi....but during this whole day we had to use public transportation.  In japan, no one really talks on the trains or buses....and no one really talks to you directly.  Bus 1...cracked out woman in her late 40s early 50s, with a teenagers outfit on, boards the bus..."Whooo it be stanky in here.  Whoo.  Do you think it stinks...it stink.  Whoo.  Someone drop tuna on the bus.  It stank.  Hey hey, do you think it stink....." After about 5 minutes of her going on and on (for the record she was very accurate it did smell)...some guy finally was like..."Listen maam, its not like it used to be, people dont talk on the bus anymore."  But she still rambled on.  Bus 2, post Japan town....Motoki has just bought a bunch of books to read on the car ride home (the next 6 days....) and he started reading them on bus. I was pissed because if he read them then, he would have nothing to do for 6 days in the car.  So I kept telling him to close the book and put it away.  Finally some old man at the front of the bus...."Hey, never tell a child to close a book.  Never tell a child to stop reading.  You are only a kid once.  You remember when you were a kid...."  At this point many people were also on the bus...but the man would not leave me alone, and continued to tell me how to raise a child....5 or so minutes into his diatribe, the bus was almost empty except for us and this 14 year old boy...."You see that boy over there...."  The boy and I made eye contact and I looked at him with a stare as if to say...PLEASE HELP....and finally, our stop came, and the man finally let me off the hook......and for the rest of the time I continued to tell Motoki to stop reading.  Someone shoud give that man a speech about how to mind his own business, or....he could have given us more money for Japanese books for the car.  Post bus experience, Motoki and I took a boat tour of the San Fransisco Bay, and we had dinner at a lovely Italian place with mother.

Day 7: Lake Tahoe.....We stayed at a ski resort in Squaw Creek, drove out to the Lake, and saw CalNeva Lodge.  Motoki had chicken wings for the first time.

Day 8: Park City, Utah...We made it to a beautiful ski area called Park City, where we stayed at a Mariot (we were supposed to stay at the Stein Erickson Lodge but it was at the top of a mountain, and it was not very fun driving up...so we abandoned ship and stayed at the bottom of the mountain...).  The nightlife in the middle of this nowhere was hopping. And had we discovered it earlier, the night would have taken several different turns.

Day 9: Denver....Hotel Monaco....and possibly the best night on the drive home....We arrived to the hotel with a sign greeting Sammy and Dino.  Motoki and I tried to find some decent stores.  But no luck.  So we went to see a baseball game.  LA-Dodgers v Colorado Rockies...最高だった！ We say above the "mile-high" mark at the stadium, next to these lovely people.  And we cheered for the Rockies, who BEAT the dodgers, one of the higher if not highest ranking teams in the MLB. Oh...and number 7, 2nd base....KAZUO MATSUI....so it was perfect.  And it was my baby's first baseball game, so we had coke, cracker jacks, and a hotdog.

Day 10: St. Louis....We made it to St. Louis...very late at night, with enough time for dinner.  Our hotel offered a great view of the Arch and of the Cardinals stadium. 

Day 11: HOME!  From early morning until about 2am, we made it from St. Louis to Celebration, with a few stops here and there...Teriyaki Experience...in Atlanta.  But we made it home and it was nice to finally be in Orlando.

Day 12: Gilda came to the house early and we were all very tired.  BUT...Motoki and I had a date.  We were going to see Sheriann, his mother's room mate from 1995-1996, whom both Junko and I hadnt seen in 12-13 years.  We met her at Epcot.  Usually when you havent seen someone in so long, you like to show your best.  But, naturally, as we reached the front of the park, heavy rain began falling and made my appearance less than its best.  But, Sheriann and Jeret (the husband) were waiting so, rain or shine, we were going to Canada (the pavillion).  Although over a decade had passed, Sheriann was unchanged.  Still amazing, still vibrant and cheerful.  It was the most amazing few hours.  And for her to meet Junkos son was just awesome.  He kept asking her about how his mother was back then  etc.  The time came to say our goodbyes.  Motoki and I stayed for the fireworks, then headed home.  I feel like Jon came over for a bit.  And then we went to bed...after I tried to force Motoki to write his damn postcards (his vacation homework assignment from his mother). 

Day 13: This was more of a relaxing day.  Gilda Motoki and I spent most of it at home lounging around.  We ended up having dinner at the Town Tavern, and then Motoki and I went to see Jerry and Brent.  The four of us headed to Fantasia Mini gardens.....Hole One.  My 2nd swing from the tee.  Ball goes OVER the hole and into the woods.  Brent runs for it.  I step over the course...take the ball...decided to step on the slide for the ball (wet from rain) and flip in the air...stopping myself in flipflops, with my toe on my left foot...but hole three I was about to pass out so we had to go home....Note: Dont wear flip flops after it rains, to mini-golf. 

Day 14:  As my toe turned purple....Motoki and I took a water mouse out in the lake surrounding downtown disney and dixie landings....I believe we had lunch downtown at Seito. . . maybe it was tonight I FINALLY had macaroni and meatballs...!! And saw Miss Ackley!!!  Also  steve and jon at came to the house too.

Day 15: I limped downtown where motoki and I met up with my friend Jeff for lunch...hadnt seen him in a year or two....amazing performer...really busy...so it was really nice that we actually had time to meet up.  And I tried to hide the limping.  Gilda Motoki and I went on a shopping frenzy at the florida mall and target, where I convinced motoki to buy mad clothes at Abercrombie kids.  He looked dazzling so he had to buy them.  It was nice for me to be in a store where the close actually fit people (not these things they refer to as clothing in Japan).  Then at night Charlotte Dave Em and Parker got into town so we headed to the hotel and had dinner and iced our feet.  Throughout the trip, Motoki had learned a phew english words/phrases.  One....Flasher, a word that appeared with a little cartoon representation in a book I had gotten him a few months earlier (so he could study english...).  Phrase 2...Shut up, Angela, a phrase he picked up from my mother.  Naturally that being a useful phrase, he decided to say shut up to my 6 year old cousin Emily, who, was somewhat offended, but then the two of them began scream SHUT UP, no YOU Shut up, NO YOU SHUT UP...at eachother, for 3 days.  I also taugh emily how to KANCHO (the shoving up the pointed fingers in a gun-like position, up someone's bum...a custom practiced by japanese children).  Hopefully, in her new kindergarden class, emily has not taken it upon her self to kancho her friends.....

Day 16: Motoki and I got up and hit the Magic Kingdom...limping...where we got on almost every big attraction before the park got crowded....and had lunch.  And then decided that it was a good idea to go to Animal kingdom mid-day....clearly wasnt.  Almost passed out in line at the safari, so Mrs. Perrone picked us up, and we met Cha and Em and went to see UNDERDOG!  while screaming YOU SHUT UP NO YOU SHUT UP. Then Cha hung out at the house for a bit ...  And then spent mad money on omiyage. And Steph came over. 

Day 17: The last day.  Packing.  Gilda and Motoki went shoe shopping.  For dinner we met up with Cha dave and the kids and ate at TGIFridays.  I showed Motoki Vista Way, where his mother used to live.... I also think maybe today we did a cake thing for Parkers up and coming 2nd b-day!

Day 18-19:  We arrived at Orlando, bid our farewells...and headed to Narita via Chicago.  Landing in Tokyo with no sleep, was amazing...because everyone waited in line.  No one pushed.  No one bitched. We got our luggage...motoki fell on the floor pushing the cart from being too tired...and we made it home....I had my saori-cha and he got a pocari sweat.  After arriving in japan our first stop was a convenience store...and all we could do was run around screaming at all the cool food and things they had.  And we ate oden. 

The trip home was successful.  Not very quality.  Too much to see in too little time.  It was nice to go home, but, it didnt really feel like I was there.  I guess I will have to go back for Christmas.....

最近・Recently

Recentlyといえば，June and July...Since the beginning of June, every weekend has been filled with friends visiting from Tokyo. So its been really busy and really fun.  Two days after I got back from the Kobe experience, Saki Matsuda came to Innoshima.  She stayed for two days, which was really nice.  Thursday we went to calligraphy, and Friday a friend had a bbq at her house.  So there were about 6 kids running around, kancho-ing, punching, eating, and then various adults (someone had to cool).  Literally the minute Saki left I went with the family* and Misako and Scottish Jen to Sensuijima. (* The family refers to the Katahira family, a couple who has 3 grandkids, who I always eat and play with recently...they have a sauna in their house....anyway).  Sensuijima is an island off of the town called Tomonoura (about an hour and a half away).  On the island...we went to some sort of sauna-onsen-spa place.  We went into a small hot room.  Then into an onsen.  Then into the small hot room.  Then into the ocean.  Repeat.  We also had a really healthy lunch where everything had to be chewed 20 times.  Then we ended with a real onsen.  Jen Misako and I spent the night at Hollys, and ate locomoco (the next day was Jens bday). 

Next weekend.....NATSUKO! came to Innoshima.  The highlight of the weekend was....a reggae concert.  But being that this is japan....we drove far far away into the mountains to a random school parking lot.  Then got onto a bus that dropped us off outside of a temple.  The reggae concert, was at a temple.  The front had been turned into a stage, and the surrounding area was full of food and store booths.  CRAZY.  I kept trying to imagine the Crystal Cathedral or the Vatican, as a stage for reggae....um no.  It was an all day event.  We  saw a new artist RICKIE G who is amazing.  (New CD is out on July 15).  Bagdad Cafe was also one of the main bands.  It was just amazing.  (And the bathroom was really clean.)

The following weekend I went to Tokyo for a wedding.  My first Japanese wedding.  When we studied abroad, my super amazing friend Meghan lived with a hostfamily, and the son was getting married. Meghan, who I never thought would say the word Japan again, made the trip back for the wedding.  Host student from ten years ago came for this.  It was huge. 
Japanese Wedding:
At about 10am the ceremony started.  Friends do not go to the ceremony.  It is family only.  Close family I believe.  But we went.  The families initially gathered in separate rooms.  First we walked to a room where the families introduced eachother to the other family. We were introduced.  Meanwhile this large bee/hornet was hovering over all of us foreigners, so it looked like we were bowing the entire time. Next, we walked to the inside of the temple.  Us non-family members waited in front of the platform, while the family proceeded above to conduct the ceremony.  It was very formal.  The couple had to drink from something.  Family members had to speak.  (Meanwhile a rooster was barking in the background, and temple visitors were talking outside and ringing bells.) They did do a ring exchange.  And then the ceremony ended.  The next in the series of events was a family lunch.  Where only those who participated in the ceremony attend.  Because at night there is the wedding party, which family (inlcuding parents) do not go to.  That is for the friends.  So we had about a 6 hours break to go around tokyo.  In our dresses.  in the raging sun.  We did a lot of walking....sat i the grass....and somehow made it back to the party. It was about two hours long.  When Toru and Yuki (the couple) arrived, they were introduced by a man on a mic.  There was a schedule to follow at (note) a party.  People who Yuki and Toru chose, gave speeches, kind of like a roast.  There was a party game.  Lots of food.  A cake cutting, and when the two hours were up, the party ended and we all went home with a gift.  (Toru's parents did attend the party).  Anyway, it was a lovely weekend, and the Suzuki family was so generous to all of us foreigners who joined the ceremony. 

The end of June-beginning of July  was kind of sad and fun.  Holly returned to Hawaii.  So we spent a lot of time with her at the end of the month.  Two weekends ago, Tomoko and her mom came to visit me.  We toured around Onomichi and Innoshima.  Her mother went to Osaka, but Tomoko stayed for the night.  So of course we did trailer park Karaoke (a must-do in Innoshima).  I hadnt spent much time with Tomoko in over two years, so it was soooo nice.  Then on July 3, Holly left.  And two days later Misako and her mother followed, for a two week trip to Hawaii.

But that is when the craziness of this last week started.  July 6.  I went to the Hiroshima driving center for the 4th time....(Note:  I went for the third time few weeks back, and did so well, got so excited, that I started turing left on a red light (right on red in the USA), because I could see the end....failed).  But friday, I went, and PASSED!  DMV-3 ANGELA-1.  So now I have a Japanese driver`s license.  And on the way home I found a new ROXY store in Hiroshima city, and almost cried.  That night I got home late, but ended up having dinner with Kiyoko-san and Shigeru-san, Misako's older cousins.  They saved dinner for me and it was a nice way to end a sweet day.  PS...Kiyoko san is awesome. She runs a liquor store and does really crafty things.  Saturday....I cleaned me apartment because it was crazy messy since I had not really been living home for the last two-weeks to a month.  Or two.  Afterward, I went to the family's house to watch DINOSAUR, the disney film with Shutaro because he LOVES dinosaurs.  It turned into a dinner event.  Scottish Jen came and we did fireworks....but that wasnt until after the IMPETIGO scare.  The children had 飛び火(tobihi) which in english is impetigo.  Now...being a hypocondriac that I am, scared Jen into thinking we were going to get some sort of skin disease from the kids....anyway we didnt (yet) and we did fireworks in the street and ate watermelon.  Since Misako's father is all alone, I was asked to take care of him.  So tuesday night we had a date.  It was a karaoke date.  (Note....Her dad is known as pants papa...pants in the british sense, because whenever I am at the house, I manage to catch him in his pants).  So, pants papa hollered some of his lady friends for a night out.  6pm....Dinner with Yasuko and Marichan (who owns the cafe down the street with the blueberry juice).  7pm....karaoke above the chinese restaurant run by this guy who is some sort of pro-singer.  10pm, Nori-chan arrives.  We stayed at karaoke until 1030 (3.5 hours). Meanwhile I was about to pass out, the rest of them were ballroom dancing to music.  At 1030, we went to Mari-chans house　for cream soda.  And by 1130 I was home.  These people can party.  This same group plus a few....will have a dinner party on thursday, where I am apparently cooking.  God bless. 

Innoshima Friendliness:
A couple weeks ago Misako and I were hanging out at the beach.  We were kind of hungry but not really.  Anyway, we were sitting by the beach and I saw a handsome poodle in a car.  So I went to talk to him.  His owner came out and let me play for a bi.  Then I went back to sitting by the beach.  About ten minutes later, the man came to misako and I with some food from the restaurant (that was right there).  Since I had played with his dog, he gave us some food.  AWESOME, because Misako and I were kind of hungry but not really.  And we got food.  Some time later we thought about getting ice cream but decided not too. And then all of a sudden the man came out of the store again, this time with ICE CREAM!!! How amazing.  We just got what we wanted without even asking. Amazing.  That is Innoshima.

PS:  I will be in the states until August 6th. 

四国と神戸・Shikoku and Kobe

Golden week didn't end there.  Within a few hours of Amy leaving, Holly arrived to Innoshima with her mother and grandmother from Hawaii.  Her family had come for a week or so to see Japan.  Holly's mother and Grandmother are Japanese American.  It wasnt their first trip to Japan, but it was their first time to Innoshima (it usually is everyones first time when they come).  When they arrived we were still having a barbeque since when Amy had been there.   That night the five of us stayed at Misako's house.  (At this point of Golden Week it is Friday night.)  Come Saturday morning, we pile in to Misako's fathers car (without her father) and head over the bridges (in the wrong direction at first).  The weather was completely overcast.  Holly's mother was in the front seat, and I sat with Holly and B (Holly's Grandmother: Obaachan...Baachan...B). I was the navigator for the trip, since I had driven to Shikoku before.  The only problem was, that Shikoku is poorly labeled when it comes to street signs.  And of course we were driving into the super inaka, where there are no signs, street names, and barely streets.  As we were driving along a relatively populated street, Holly started screaming a word in Hawaiin that she saw on a building sign.  Misako, thinking we were drivining passed our destination, whipped the car into the sidewalk and stopped.  Meanwhile Holly was like, oh no.  I just saw a word I knew.  Luckily no one was injured, and the rest of us screamed the word for the rest of the road trip.

We made it to our first destination:  Ozu.  Ozu is more on the left side of Shikoku.  We went to visit a small area that is famous for being an old-fasioned japanese town, used in films, Pokopen Town.  It was a really cute tourist destination, with stores and merchandise from at least the 40s.  There was also food, and everything felt really old fasioned.  So mission accomplished.  Next stop.  The other side of Shikoku: Takamatsu.  I had visited there in November.   I had remembered a lot of good things about Takamatsu.  I forgot that it was really hard to find a restaurant, although it is a city.  We walked for at least an hour or so trying to find a restaurant.  It was saturday night and nothing was open past 8.  But we did find a restaurant, and made it back to our hotel.  Holly and her family had a triple and it was HUGE.  So we played poker and drank umeshu.  I had really good beginners luck. 

We got up early in the morning and headed to our final destination: NARUTO, famous for whirlpools in the ocean.  Because of the way the currents run in that part of the seto-inland sea, at certain times of the day, there are constant whirlpools forming and reforming in the ocean, under the bridge connecting Shikoku to Okayama-prefecture.  The weather was extremely cloudy and rainy and ming.  Making it hard to see too far anywhere.  But we did manange to get on a boat tour.  First we ate and walked under the bridge to glass bottom areas and saw (cement tripods and) whirlpools below us in the water.  We arrived at our boat tour of the whirlpools, in the special glass bottim boat package.  Being from Florida, I imagined a glass bottom boat, where the bottom would be glass, and I would see all kinds of things.  Instead, we were put into a tiny room with glass windows on the side and all we saw was green water.  So we left the room and went up to the top of the boat.  The boat took us right to the whirlpools.  We were all but in them.  They were everywhere, unpredictable, and there we were in stormy weather right inside the whirlpools.  It was awesome.  After that, we drove back to Fukuyama, via the Okayama bridge, had dinner, and brought Holly back to the parking lot where she left her car.  But....she had lost her parking ticket....and without it, it was going to cost over $100 to get her car out of an otherwise free parking lot.  But its Japan.  And after calling a special number, and talking to a special man, we were told where they keep some tickets hidden in a special place, just in case something like this should happen.  After that we said goodbye to Holly's family and headed back to Innoshima. 

At the end of May, all of the recontracting JETs had a recontracting conference, and mine was scheduled in Kobe (you may have heard of Kobe Beef...or Kobe Steak House....or Kobe the basketball player).  Anyway, it is a major city in Japan.  So Scottish Jen and I decided to head up a few days before the conference.  Now I must preface the rest of this with some recent research.  Under the reccomendation of Holly, Jen and I had recently read a book called "Dogs and Demons, the Fall of Modern Japan," written by (my new hero) Alex Kerr.  Pretty much this book has jaded the rest of our experiences with Japan, especially that of our time in Kobe. 
Summary:
Alex Kerr began his interest in Japan when he was very young, and has lived in Japan for many years, has done a lot f research, and can call himself an expert on Japan.  After reading his book, I was left with th feeling that I feel bad for the future of japan...かわいそうな感じ。When people think of Japan...what is the first thing that comes to mind....?  Technology, Tokyo, Trains, Clean, New, Lights, Fast, Business...etc.  But, in fact Japan is more than just that.  I am guilty of thinking Japan as being limited to Tokyo and Kyoto.  I am guiltiy of being dazzled by the lights and cameras and cell phone decorations.  Imagine saying that America was only New York and McDonalds.....clearly wrong.  What about Louisanna?  What about Colorado....what about Hawaii?  What about the midwest?  What about Chipole?  What about Subway and farmers markets and lemonade stands?  American is more than bright lights, broadway and fast food.  And Japan is not either.  In fact Japan is everything but what one would think of Japan being.  And from Alex Kerr, it was pointed out to me.  I guess i had already known this, but he just made it clear in my head as to WHY. 
Why:
According to Kerr.....Japan is controlled by a group of bureaucrats who, for their own intents and purposes, are destroying this country.  For example.  Prefectures/cities/towns are granted a certain amout of money for public works projects etc such as new highways, cementing mountain sides, new parks, new monuments etc.  Back when Japan was rebuilding and establishing itself, this system worked.  But now it is not the case and since Japan has not changed a lot of its legislation since the 60s or 70s, and since the bureaucrats are greedy, the country is going to shit pretty fast.  Now, even if the city or area does not need a new highway....it worries that the government will not offer the money again, so they use it toward unnecessary things.  As a result, everywhere you go in Japan, it looks the same.  Almost all of Japans rivers and streams have been encased in cement.  Almost everywhere, mountains are covered in cement (to prevent landslides which dont happen).  Most beaches and shores are lined with cement tripods (see photo) said to protect from errosion (although it makes it worse).  Allergenic ceder trees have replaces the once beautiful natural scenery.  Monuments are being built just for the sake of being built.  Eyesores rised above the once traditional and natural cities.  Such as Kyoto.  Old is being torn down to make way for big block buildings.  Parks are being created with no nature...with a cement something or other....Things are being built it no rhyme or reason.  Just so the bureaucrats get money.  But Japan is deteriorating.  And its really sad to see. (Please refer to "Dogs and Demons")

So.  Jen and I went to Kobe.  And it looked like Hiroshima.  It looked like Yamaguchi.  It looked like Fukuyama.  It looked like Okayama.  It looked like we were driving in a circle to the same city we had left from.  If we turned left, there was a cement mountain or stream.  If we looked right, there was a giant fish statue made out of some horrible metal, or a large red tower with no purpose.  So what did we do.....We went to Starbucks 4 times in two days, and went to the book store most of the time.  In other words, we were very disappointed.  And what is the purpose of eating the famous Kobe beef, when the cows are raised in Hokkaido?  I can get kobe beef back home.  (anyway we had some really good Takamatsu beef....)  When the conference started, we stayed on Port Island...and island made out of garbage many many years ago.  Another project the government created.  When I lived in Odaiba, it was a simliar situation.  An island made out of reclaimed waste and garbage.  Only then I was in awe of the excellence of the places...its newness.  Its grandeur.  But post Kerr, I look at these islands and it makes me sad.  I look at the red towers and the fish monument, and Im sad.  I see every cement hill.  I notice every encased stream.  Nature in Japan, is no longer natural.  Its what the government says should be natural.  Its what is created as natural.  Its like some sort of project playing the role of nature.  (On a side note, I found out recently that the faous fish market in Tokyo, sukiji, will be closing down to make room for a new building....arses)

I was so happy to be back to Innoshima after Kobe.  Why....because Innoshima, although hills are cemented, still remains somewhat of what Japan should be.  Nature still plays the role of itself.  Parks are parks.  I can look lefy and see a temple that is untouched.  Innoshima still has a natural traditional beauty.  And for that I am thankful.  But, I only give it a few more years, because since the merge with Onomichi City, Innoshima too is falling at the hands of the bureaucrats.

ゴールデンウィーク＋ ・ Golden Week +

The last few months have been pretty busy. Various trips, DMV 3 Angela 0, conference, etc.  So I will start back in April, when my landlord changed our garbage rules at the apartment.  In Japan, everything gets recycled.  Burnables, nonburnables, PET bottles, cans, battery like things, natural earth like things...etc. (Note: You have to wash the garbage before you throw it out.  Its kind of like cleaning the house before the cleaning people come.) Each of them have to be thrown our on different days, according to the town you live in.  For example, I can throw away burnables on Mondays and Thursdays, and non burnables on Fridays.  But I can only throw away PET bottles on the 1st and 3rd Wednesdays of the month.  To elimate any confusion, everyone is given a highly complicated guide page with cartoon drawings, that map out exactly the days in which certain items can be thrown out.  Before my landlord changed the rules, we could throw out our separated garbage any day, and she would take care of it (from what I understood). One day I threw away my garbage, but the lid outside didnt quite close.  I thought to myself....hmm thats fine.  There are no racoons.... The next morning, all the garbage was all over the parking lot and about 1/4 km down the road.  The crows had decided to take it out during the night.  So, since then, I have to follow my cartoon guide to garbage everyday.  Now, the garbage place is not large, and its kind of hidden.  There are random little designated garbage huts around my town, so I found the closest one to me, and that is what I have been using since the crows attacked and made things difficult. 

That being said. I try to follow the rules (I admit, I dont wash all my garbage, but that is my own little protest about the absurdity of it all).  A day or two before plastics day, I decided it was time to throw out the plastics.  Because I hadnt been home in a while and the garbage was old.  I only thought it would be okay because I had noticed that someone else had thrown out plastics earlier. So I made a special trip to the garbage hut.  (Note again: It wasnt plastics day.)  I got to the hut and a woman was sitting inside of it, taking up all the space, with a buch of plastics garbage.  And she was separating it.  I waited, as she separated her plastics. (Note again part 2: She was separating plastics in the garbage hut, on a non-plastics day.)  Finally, I said excuse me, and made the motions to place my garbage in the hut.  BUT.  This woman in the hut turned to me and said, "No no.  Its not plastics day, you can't throw that out."  Normally in this situation I would have done the right thing and thrown my garbage out regardless of what she had said.  But, I thought, maybe she runs the hut.  Maybe she takes care of the garbage, and works here. So I walked away confused.  About 30 seconds later it occured to me that there was no way she worked there.  She was just throwing away her garbage, and that she was a racist bitch.  Anyway, I snuck back later and threw my garbage out, only to find her plastics carefully lined up in the garbage hut.

At the end of April/Beginning of May, there is a holiday arrangement called Golden Week.  During this time, Miss Amy Lynd and I decided to make the pilgrimage to Ozuki.  The two of us worked at Ozuki Salon in DC (great place) and decided we needed see the original town/city, whatever it may have been.  One of the owners of the Salon, Iku, is from Ozuki, which is why it takes that name.  While we made the pilmgrimage, we also thought that we would try to find his friends and family.....

As it turns out, Ozuki was only a 4 ish hour drive from where I lived, in Yamaguchi Prefecture.  (Right next to Hiroshima-Prefecture.) So we hopped in the car and took off.  The week before I took a lot of time preparting maps of all the places we were going.  In japan, no one really does road trips.  And a six hour drive is so far to them, that it is almost unheard of.  So when I told some people, they laughed and said..."Oh wow, maybe your engine is going to explode." Well, I sure hope it doesnt.  We arrived in Ube City, the clostest place to stay near Ozuki.  Note:  Ozuki is so inaka there are no hotels....After about 10 mins driving around the station not finding our hotel, it happened that we were at the wrong station completely, and then went on our way to the right location.  Our hotel was really nice and as it turns out it was a hotel/ryokan.  Meaning...that we had to share a shower with other people.  Luckily there was a lock on the shower room, and we took turns not letting other people in.  The time came for the pilgrimage, and we boarded the train to Ozuki.  Upon arrival, we spent at least 10-15 minutes taking photos in the station (note: the station was about the size of a 7-11.)  And then made our way out.  Determinded to find Iku's family and friends, we stopped at several hair salons throughout the town, inquiring about Iku. "Excuse me, do you know Iku?  He has a salon in DC called Ozuki...?"  etc.  After several failed attempts, we knew we would have to search deeper into the town to find him.  So we walked around, and picked houses that we decided belonged to him and his family.  We did come across a small karaoke snack bar that we hung out in (no, they didnt know Iku either).  We left Ozuki that day, content, having accomplished our pilgrimage.

Usually a trip ends after the pilgrimage is completed, but being that was only Day 1, we still had a week to go.  So we drove to Kyushu, another main Island of Japan, and stayed a night in Fukuoka.

Day 2: Arrival in Fukuoka. 12:30ish pm. We arrived at the hotel, to find a nice almost empty parking lot, only to discover that in fact despite the lack of cars, it was actually full.  (I thought I had reserved a space when I booked the hotel).  So we parked in a spot across the street.  1:30pm  I wondered where my sunglasses were.  I hadnt seen them since I arrived at the hotel.  No big deal, maybe I had left them in the car.  With the whole day ahead of us, we decided to eat and then head out to 二見が浦　（Futamigaura), which couldnt have been further from Fukuoka without leaving Kyushu, so it seemed.  We took a train to an inaka area, and searched for the obscure bus stop.  As it turned out, the bus was running at least 30-45 minutes late.  Note: No transporation is ever late in Japan.  The reason we were going to Futamigaura, was because I had seen some pictures of it from when Misako went, and I remembered it being interesting, and asked her about it.  Anyway, we had no real idea of how to get there, and not many people in Fukuoka did either, but somehow we managed to get onto the bus.  According to the time schedule, we had about 45 minutes to stay once we got to the area, in order to catch the bus back on time.  When we arrived at our location, the only thing in sight was a field and port-o-potty.  As always, there was an obaachan, and we asked her for directions to whatever it was we came to see.  On that note, we didnt really know what we came to see.  We just came.  So we began walking.  And there was nothing that resembled Misakos photos.  In the distance we saw (concrete in the ocean) and a few cars parked along the side. I ran to the first car and asked the two women inside, if we were headed in the right direction to something interesting. They looked at eachother.  Asked me who I was with. I said Amy (they didnt know her.)  And then they said they would drive us down the street because there was no way we would make it on time if we walked.  So they drove us.  Note:  Amy and I were aware that it is never good to get into the car with strangers.  Especially in remote locations.  That being said...When we arrived at the location, we realized what we had came to see.  Cute random cafes along the ocean, a white Tori in the water, and if we waited another half hour or so, we could see the sunset.  The ladies, Hiroko and Yukiyo, parked the car.  They realized that we would never make the bus in time, and that the bus was inconvenient, so they decided that we would watch the sunset together, have a nice dinner together, and then they would drive us to the train station, so we wouldnt have to be inconvenienced.  The sunset was so beautiful.  I wish we had gotten to the beach earlier and spent more of the day there.  Hiroko and Yukiyo were awesome.  Yukiyo was an artist, had lived in France.  I think Hiroko was involved is some sort of chorus thing like Gilda.  And I would definately get into a car with Gilda.  So after a few hours, we were back at the station after spending a lovely evening.  With another pilgrimage under our belt, we retreated back to the hotel.  10:40pm.  (9 hours later).  We decided to check the car for anything we would need.  And there, on top of my car, on the OUTSIDE, sat my sunglasses. They were there untouched all day.  (Unless someone used them and brought them back.)  Unbelievable.

Day 3.  We couldnt leave Fukuoka without having the famous Fukuoka Ramen.  So we drove down to a shopping center and found Ramen Stadium.  After waiting in the longest line we could find, we had the best ramen (it took them longer to pour Amy's juice than it took for them to make both of our ramens).  Back in the car, we headed further into Kyushu until we arrived in Nagasaki!  I was really impressed with the atmosphere of Nagasaki. Although the 2nd atomic bomb devasted the city, the air was very lively.  Whereas in Hiroshima city, there is always a feeling of sadness lingering in the air.  Of course we did visit the Peace Park, and the Atomic Bomb memorial museum (note, my purse fell on the floor of the bathroom and caused discomfort for the rest of the day).  On our way to the park and museum, we stopped at the One-legged Tori, a gate that had been severed in half by the power of the bomb.  Its one of the places that the tour book directed us to.  No one was there as we climbed the steps, but all of a sudden I turned around and Amy was talking to an old man who approached her. He was a ひばくしゃ、Atomic Bomb survivor, and he proceded to explain everything about the Tori, and tell us about his experience.  He pointed out the things about the Tori that the guidebook doesnt say.  He was really proud that he could stand there and talk to us about this.  And it was really amazing for us to have this man approach us without hesitation, and tell us something that not many other people get to hear. 

We spent a lot of time walking around the city.  Nagasaki is definately lacks night life.  But we were able to find some random music bar, where a japanese band (including a female drummer) rocked out with American and Brittish songs.  For several days we tried to eat at a place near our hotel that hosted an ET Keg, but unfortunately we never made it there.  One day in Nagasaki we headed to the Dutch slopes area.  Nagasaki was once a trading port for the Dutch , so there is a lot of western influence on some of the architecture.  In my guidbook we found a cute waffle cafe that we wanted to go to, but there was no way we were going to find it (there are no street names in Japan, and there are millions of streets). So instead we set out to find something else to eat.  We came across a really cool, old English style place, and it turned out to be the waffle place.  Pilgrimage accomplished without even being attempted.  Every night before bed we stayed up watching a different Jonny Depp film, so we ended our time in Nagasaki with JD.  Also, we think that the man next door in the hotel room ordered some sort of hostess.  Because we arrived at the same time as the woman did, and the man arrived right after us, and didnt know who she was, but realized she was there for him.  And then there was chatter in the next room for a few hours. 

Day 6:  We drove back to Innoshima.  The first thing we did upon arrival, was karaoke with Misako, Yukari, and their friend Yuki from Osaka! And the next day my little Amy went back to Tokyo.  I must note now, that I almost had a money crisis.  On every holiday (usually long onces like golden week and new years) all the ATMs close down.  So even if God came with a debit card and a password, he could not get money.  I went to every ATM on the island (just about) before I was finally able to withdraw money at the last minute before the banks closed for the holiday weekend.  I wasnt surprised.  It just gave me flashbacks from when Meghan and I lived in Tokyo and we were always in that kind of problem.

広島運転センター１ アンジェラ ０ ・ DMV 1 Angela 0

It is popular belief in Japan that Americans tend to be the aggressive type of foreigners, always trying to get what they want, trying to disrupt the order.  Always kind of fiesty.  Its true.  Americans do tend to be a little on the defensive side.  And after facing the DMV head-on, I understand why. We Americans are made to jump through hoops that other foreigners do not have to do, hoops that are not only on fire, they are burnt so much they are powder.  Making it impossible to jump through them, and therefore impossible to complete the task. And here comes the example.  The drivers license.  People from the UK, Australia, New Zealand, pretty much all of Europe, Canada...etc, bring in their international license, less than $50, take an eye exam, and go home with a brand new shiny Japanese license.  Americans, on the other hand, have to take a written test, a driving test, and if both are passed, we get the privilage to take the eye test.  It sounds easy.  A driving test.  Ive been driving for about 7-8 years.  But not in Japan.  No matter how well you drive, as an American, if us so as much sneeze during the test, the tester will find something wrong and fail you.  It takes at least 4 times to pass.  For some, 11 times.  Now.  Every time it costs about $50 round trip to get to the DMV which is about 2 hours and 45 minutes away from where I live.  Plus $25 every time for test fees.  So...after 4-11 times of taking the test, I might as well have hired someone to drive me around instead.  Here I am going to bring in my friend Holly as an example.   On her first try, the test man was pissed because she spoke english, then he was pissed at the other test taker in the car, for speaking to her in English, and for helping her.  Needless to say they both failed that time.  She passed her exam on the 5th try I believe.  And it wasnt until after she wore a more than revealing shirt, that the proctor decided to pass her.  Its not because the Japanese drive on the opposite side of the road than Americans, it has to do with driving treaties and there being different rules in different states, and more lenient rules in the US.  Whatever.  Toward the end of March, my boss drove me to the center (that was nice).  There was another JET there, and the two of us were busy studying a map of the course.  I should not have to study a map to pass a driving test.  I dont study maps when I leave my house.  I go.  If I go on a road trip, I plan a course.  End scene.  But people really go to town and memorize the map in their sleep because of the sheer intensity provided by the Japanese DMV.  Back to the end of March....it comes to my turn to drive.  The other JET is in the back of the car.  Step 1: Walk around the car checking underneath for children.  So, Check  No kids on the course.  Next.  Get in car...buckle fix mirror, adjust seat...etc.  Now since it is Japan, I had to be super polite, and I took it to the EXTREMES.  Pretty much I kissed ass for the duration of my test.  Bowing, shitsureishimasu-ing like an ass.  According to the DMV, when driving in Japan you have to ALWAYS STAY LEFT.  Pretty much hugging the line.  When I learned how to drive in the US, I believe I was shunned in drivers ed for staying too far to one side.  (Keep in mind when I talk abt the roads, the Japanese drive on the opposite side...so right is left and left is right.)  When making left turns you have to pretty much be as close to the curb without hitting it.  CROSS THE WHITE LINE.  Or, in other words, hit the bikers and pedestrians.  Check.  When turning right, turns must be wide.  Check.  Kiss ass.  Check.  And, test over.  He gave the group of us a speech about keeping left.  We all waited for our results.  As soon as he told me that my driving was "okay," I quickly went from kissing as to kiss my ass before he could finish sayin "ままだった."  I think my boss had to apologize for my sudden change to extreme rudeness, eat-shit-and-die behavior.  Although he did tell my boss I was the best in the group, I dont want to be the best, I want my license.  And my boss said I was fine and should have passed.  Pretty much I was flawless.  But according to the DMV guy, I wasnt left enough.  There was no way I could have been anymore left, unless I sat in the passengers seat and stuck my arm out of the window.  He also said none of us paid attention to the blind wall area.  Regardless.  We should have passed.  TAKE 2........Mid April....I went again, back to the center from hell.  This time, I had to take two buses, and it was raining and minging and just not the day to be arsed to take a driving test.  Step 1:  Check for Child.  Step 2: Be polite (its the same guy...and I think he had it in for me).  Step 3: Drive over the white line.  Step 4: Fail again.  This time....I wasnt right enough on my turns.  So what is it.  Left or right?  Right our left?  One would consider this ambiguous misunderstanding as needing to be in the middle....not left enough not right enough...why not balance in the middle.  No. Wrong.  I have to be left and right at the same time. He also said I didnt look enough when I turned.  So.  Review.  Be right and left at the same time, look behind me while driving straight.  I cant believe I have been driving for 8 years completely wrong.  Upon check-out, he said I might be able to get it next time.  But, Im sure I will be too left and too right for his liking.  I used to think that the Florida DMV was hell, but the Japanese DMV makes any US DMV look like a candy store in Disneyland.

In spite of the DMV, I have been driving with my international license.  Since I can use it until August.  A few weeks ago, the cherry blossoms were blooming like crazy all over Japan, so Misako Holly Jen and I set out to Ueno Park for hanami (picnic).    It was so peaceful.  I nice park in the country side.  An old man played the shamisen.  People ate and drank and enjoyed themselves around us.  And then like ants to sugar, the park was descended upon by an army of florscent green shirted people running around to the happy picnic-ing people trying to get them to vote for the candidate they represented.  And with that, the peace left the park and chaos broke out.  When they finally left, they got in a car with sirens and speakers, and screamed down the street soliciting.  And that is how election campainging works in Japan.  Usually the speaker cars start at 7am and drive through the neighborhoods advertising.  Anyone in their right mind would not vote for the person who screams in their window at 7am.  I would vote against them twice. 

After little research and with the help of Suzukas co-worker, I found out about a Catholic church about an hour away, that supposedly had an Italian Priest.  So on Easter Sunday, I went to mass.  In Japanese.  By and Italian Priest.  And of course I sat next to a Philipino woman.  The room was small.  And attached to a pre-school.  But it was filled with Japanese.  Easter mass is notorious for being long.  And as luck would have it, this mass also included about two baptisms and I think even one communion.  So, it ended about Tuesday.  It was long.  But really nice to go to church after...well...a long time.  The more interesting part of the day was having to speak Japanese to the Italian Priest and Spanish nun.  Easter Sunday was also great because I could finally eat kaki-pi again, as I had given it up for Lent.  And so many people gave me mad kaki-pi for my bday (thanks Kate...Yukari...Jen...etc).  Also, Kate and I colored Easter eggs at work, and at calligraphy, we colored eggs and had an Easter egg hunt earlier in the week.

My birthday happened so fast I barely remember it.  Holly baked  me an amazing cake!!!!  And had a movie night.  Misako organized a hanami near the beach.  But it rained.  Anyway, we still had it outside.  And so many people came and brought food.  Michi made bread...home-made bread.  It was amazing. Then we went to karaoke...in a place even shadier than the Sai Sai trailer park karaoke place.  Very classic.  Later in the evening a few of us went to Yukaris house and prayed for her grandmother who had recently passed away.  The family comes over and everyone has to pray every day, twice I think.  And with that, I was 23. 

Scottish Jen and I were walking to a convenience store in Onomichi last month, at around 1130 at night.  And we are walking.  At no particular pace.  With no particular emotion in our walk.  And a car pulled up.  The window rolled down and a man asked us, "暇ですか?"  "Are you free?"  Excuse me?  I tried not to laugh, we told him we werent free.  Perhaps kind of busy.  And he drove the streets for a while, looking for "free" people.  Apparently girls of other foreign decent from the west, are sometimes "free" in the streets there.  On another outing, I went with my friend Dai, to a fishing village, Tomonoura, to see a live concert.  It was really nice.  Independent music.  Young people hanging out.  And of course, there was an old drunk man in the corner.  Pretty much he laughed and heckled for the entire performance.  And I was all but pissing myself.  He was like one of those old men, who is always drunk.  Who puts vodka in his cereal and milk to start the day.  So the next performer comes up, and the old man is heckling up a storm..."Stop talking we dont care.  Why dont you play already."  And then the performer engaged him in a banter that went on until he finally started playing and the old man got back to his drinking and laughing.  The concert was at a cafe, and it was really nice.  I think I enjoyed the heckler more than the music. 

The most recent strange thing that has happened was the other day when Scottish Jen and I set out for Fukuyama.  After several hours of starbucksing and shopping, we went to a CD store to buy some blank DVDs.  After the purchase, we walked toward the exit, but had to pass through the metal sensor machines.  And it started beeping on me. (I knew it would bc I had heard it earlier and a man came to me and I asked him where the DVD-Rs were.)  Anyway, this time, two Japanese men came up to me.  I walked through again. BEEEEP.  Then i put my wallet thru...nothing.  purse....nothing.  bags...nothing.  DVDs...nothing.  a tissue in my pocket...nothing.  Then I thought, what the hell, let me just stick my butt through, and sure enough....BEEEEP.  My ass set off the alarm at the store.  The men were in no position to ask me to remove my pants.  But they did say, "It seems like there is merchandise in there." Unless I managed to shove a CD up my ass, in the middle of the store....Meanwhile Jen and I were laughing so hard we couldnt breathe.  So they let us go.  And I got to keep my pants on. 

FINALLY....Last weekend was the LET'S FILMFEST, Film Festival, that Natasha and Graham organized for JETs in Hiroshima.  Tanya, Scottish Jen, Bab's mac and I put together a musical film called THE LITTLE GAIJIN, based on the life of a JET sent to Innoshima....(kind of a biography...).  Anyway.  We came in 2nd PLACE!!!!  In each film, there were three things that were needed 1-Location 2-Item 3-Phrase.  This year they were 1-A statue or monument 2-Full ashtray 3-"You should be dancing." 

You can view our film on youtube.....

 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wdDOMtTG8rA